The Journal
Essays on the questions skin actually asks. Every piece ends with the receipt, with the sources behind it.
Post-acne marks
Post-acne marks: the spot is gone, the receipt isn’t
Barrier
How to fix a damaged skin barrier (and how to tell it’s damaged)
Routines
Skincare routine order: what goes on first (and what actually matters)
Acne
A skincare routine for acne-prone skin, built on the evidence
Retinoids
Retinol for beginners: how to start without wrecking your skin
Sun protection
How to choose a sunscreen you’ll actually wear every day
Uneven tone
How to get rid of dark spots on your face: a routine with receipts
Acne
Acne scars: types, treatments and the best products for acne scars and dark spots
Acne
Hormonal acne: why it shows up on the jawline and what treats it
Trend Receipt · Beef tallow as a face moisturiser
Tallow balms promise “ancestral” skin. Here's what tallow actually is, what the evidence says, and a simpler swap with a real paper trail.
Trend Receipt · Rice water (and fermented rice water) as a toner
Rice water toners and DIY ferments are everywhere. What's actually in it, what small studies found, and how to try it without the risks.
Trend Receipt · Slugging (petrolatum as the last night-time step)
Slugging means a thin layer of petrolatum as the last step at night. This one actually has a paper trail, with a couple of caveats.
Skin Files · Uneven tone
Where uneven tone comes from, why it fades slowly, and which ingredients have a paper trail.
Skin Files · Post-acne marks
Brown, red, or purple marks after breakouts: what they are, how long they tend to last, and what has evidence.
Skin Files · Barrier
What the skin barrier is, how to know if your skin barrier is damaged, and how to repair it with gentler habits and barrier-supporting moisturizers.
Skin Files · Texture & bumps
Small bumps, rough patches and visible pores: why they happen, what has evidence, and when a bump needs a closer look.
Skin Files · Oiliness & shine
Why some areas shine by midday, what actually changes oil production, and why stripping skin backfires.
Skin Files · Redness
Why skin looks red, what tends to make it worse, and which gentle steps have evidence.
Skin Files · Routines
The order to apply cleanser, serums, moisturizer, retinol and sunscreen, morning and night. Plus the few layering rules worth caring about.
Skin Files · Routines
Cleanser, moisturizer, sunscreen. Why a minimal routine works, how to choose each product, and when to add a fourth step.
Skin Files · Acne
A morning and night routine for breakouts using the ingredients with the strongest evidence (benzoyl peroxide, adapalene, azelaic acid), plus how long to give it.
Skin Files · Retinoids
How to start retinol (or another retinoid), how often to use it, the “retinol uglies”, and how retinol compares with tretinoin, adapalene and bakuchiol.
Skin Files · Sun protection
How to choose the best sunscreen for your face: SPF 30+, broad spectrum, mineral vs chemical, tinted sunscreen for dark spots, and how much to apply.
Skin Files · Sun protection
Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide vs avobenzone and friends: how they work, what the absorption study found, and how to choose for sensitive skin, acne or deeper tones.
Skin Files · Dryness
Skin care for dry skin starts with knowing if it’s dry or dehydrated. How to tell them apart, why oily skin can still feel tight, and the moisturizer ingredients that help.
Skin Files · Exfoliation
Glycolic and lactic acid (AHAs) vs salicylic acid (BHA): what each does, which skin types suit them, how often to exfoliate, and how not to overdo it.
Skin Files · Antioxidants
What vitamin C serums can and can’t do, L-ascorbic acid vs derivatives, why serums turn brown, and where vitamin C fits in a routine.
Skin Files · Uneven tone
What gets rid of dark spots on the face, including post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation from acne: sunscreen first, then azelaic acid, niacinamide, retinoids and hydroquinone, with realistic timelines.
Skin Files · Acne
Retinoids and exfoliants can cause an early flare (“purging”). How to tell it apart from a reaction or a product that’s clogging your skin, and how long it should last.
Skin Files · Routines
The Korean skincare routine explained step by step: double cleansing, essences, sheet masks and sunscreen. Which steps have evidence, which are optional, and how to build a shorter version.
Skin Files · Routines
What a Japanese skin care routine looks like, how it differs from Korean skincare, why lotions and sunscreen are the core, and which popular ingredients have evidence.
Skin Files · Acne
Acne scars vs dark spots, the main scar types, which treatments have evidence (microneedling, lasers, peels, subcision), and what products can and can’t do for acne scars.
Skin Files · Acne
Hormonal acne in adult women: why it clusters around the jaw and chin, why it flares with periods, and the treatments with evidence, from topical retinoids to spironolactone and the pill.
Skin Files · Sensitivity
What sensitive skin actually means, common triggers like fragrance, how to build a short sensitive skin care routine, and which ingredients tend to be gentle.
Skin Files · Labels
Organic skincare products and all-natural skin care explained: what “organic” means on a cosmetic label, whether natural is gentler, and how to shop without the marketing.
Skin Files · Aging
How menopause changes skin, from dryness and thinning to adult acne, and a practical menopause skin care routine built on moisturizer, sunscreen and retinoids.
Skin Files · Trends
PDRN (polydeoxyribonucleotide) is showing up in serums and creams. What it is, what the research on injected PDRN shows, and why topical PDRN skincare is still unproven.
Skin Files · Flaking
Seborrheic dermatitis causes greasy flakes and redness around the nose, brows and scalp. Why it happens, how it differs from dry skin, and treatments with evidence like ketoconazole.
Skin Files · Retinoids
Retinal (retinaldehyde) vs retinol: how each converts to retinoic acid, which is stronger, how irritating they are, and how they compare with tretinoin.
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Trend Receipts, by email
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