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Skin Files · Acne

A skincare routine for acne-prone skin, built on the evidence

A morning and night routine for breakouts using the ingredients with the strongest evidence (benzoyl peroxide, adapalene, azelaic acid), plus how long to give it.

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01 · The short version

Acne routines online often stack five actives at once. Dermatology guidelines point to a smaller set with strong evidence, used consistently for months.

This is a starting framework for mild to moderate breakouts. Painful, deep or scarring acne deserves a dermatologist sooner rather than later.

02 · Morning

  • Gentle cleanser (or a benzoyl peroxide wash, rinsed after 1–2 minutes).
  • Light, non-comedogenic moisturizer.
  • Sunscreen. Many acne treatments make skin more sun-sensitive.

03 · Night

  • Gentle cleanser.
  • A topical retinoid such as adapalene, a pea-sized amount for the whole face, starting a few nights a week.
  • Moisturizer, before or after the retinoid if you’re getting dry.

04 · Ingredients with the strongest receipts

The 2024 American Academy of Dermatology guidelines strongly recommend benzoyl peroxide, topical retinoids and topical antibiotics (used with BPO), and recommend azelaic acid and salicylic acid as options.

05 · How long to wait

Give a routine about 8–12 weeks before judging it. Early dryness and even a short flare with retinoids are common. Change one thing at a time.

06 · The science

Acne involves four things: excess oil, clogged pores, C. acnes bacteria, and inflammation. Retinoids target clogging; benzoyl peroxide targets bacteria; azelaic acid touches several.

Picking and harsh scrubbing add inflammation and can leave longer-lasting marks than the spot itself.

07 · What might help

  • Benzoyl peroxide for inflamed acne.well-supported
  • Topical retinoids (e.g. adapalene) for clogging and prevention.well-supported
  • Azelaic acid, especially when marks come with breakouts.well-supported
  • Salicylic acid for blackheads and clogged pores.limited evidence
  • Tea tree oil gels for mild acne.limited evidence

08 · Insufficient evidence

  • Toothpaste, lemon juice or baking soda on spots.
  • Rotating many actives week to week.

The Receipt

  1. 01Pick a retinoid and/or benzoyl peroxide; keep everything else gentle.
  2. 02Judge at 8–12 weeks, not 8–12 days.
  3. 03Painful, deep or scarring acne: see a dermatologist.

Education, not a diagnosis. If something changes quickly, hurts, bleeds, or worries you, see a dermatologist.

Questions people ask

What is the best over-the-counter acne treatment?
Benzoyl peroxide and adapalene have the strongest evidence of widely available options. Many people use both (BPO in the morning, adapalene at night).
How long does it take for acne treatment to work?
Usually 8–12 weeks to see a clear difference. Early changes can be subtle.
Should I moisturize if I have acne?
Yes. A light, non-comedogenic moisturizer makes acne treatments easier to tolerate.
Sources (6)
  1. Reynolds RV, et al. Guidelines of care for the management of acne vulgaris. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2024.
  2. Liu H, et al. Topical azelaic acid, salicylic acid, nicotinamide, sulphur, zinc and fruit acid (alpha-hydroxy acid) for acne. Cochrane Database Syst Rev. 2020.
  3. Sagransky M, Yentzer BA, Feldman SR. Benzoyl peroxide: a review of its current use in the treatment of acne vulgaris. Expert Opin Pharmacother. 2009.
  4. Thielitz A, Gollnick H. Topical retinoids in acne vulgaris: update on efficacy and safety. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2008.
  5. American Academy of Dermatology. Acne: tips for managing.
  6. American Academy of Dermatology. Adult acne.

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