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Retinol for beginners: how to start without wrecking your skin

How to start retinol (or another retinoid), how often to use it, the “retinol uglies”, and how retinol compares with tretinoin, adapalene and bakuchiol.

A single small amber drop with a faint swipe of serum on cream paper
Illustrative image

01 · The short version

Retinoids have some of the deepest evidence in skincare, and some of the most common early complaints: dryness, flaking and stinging. Starting slowly avoids most of that.

02 · Which retinoid?

They differ mainly in strength and how directly they act.

  • Retinol: over the counter; converted in skin to retinoic acid. Gentler, with smaller trials.
  • Adapalene: made for acne; available without a prescription in some countries.
  • Tretinoin: prescription; the active form with the deepest evidence for acne and photoaging.
  • Bakuchiol: not a retinoid; one small trial found similar results to retinol with less irritation.

03 · A slow start

  • Weeks 1–2: a pea-sized amount, two nights a week.
  • Weeks 3–4: every other night if your skin is comfortable.
  • After that: nightly if tolerated. If not, every other night is still effective.
  • Moisturizer before (to buffer) or after. Sunscreen every morning.

04 · What to expect

Dryness and mild flaking in the first weeks are common. Visible changes in texture and tone usually take three months or more. For acne, an early flare can happen.

05 · The science

Retinoids act on retinoic acid receptors to influence cell turnover and collagen. Vehicle-controlled trials have shown improvement in sun-damaged skin with tretinoin, and smaller studies show benefits with retinol.

06 · What might help

  • Fine lines and texture from sun damage (tretinoin).well-supported
  • Fine lines with over-the-counter retinol.limited evidence
  • Acne prevention with topical retinoids.well-supported

07 · Insufficient evidence

  • Encapsulated “no irritation” retinol matching prescription results.
  • Starting with the strongest percentage to get results faster.

The Receipt

  1. 01Low and slow: two nights a week, then build.
  2. 02Moisturize and wear sunscreen.
  3. 03Judge it at three months. Retinoids are generally avoided in pregnancy.

Education, not a diagnosis. If something changes quickly, hurts, bleeds, or worries you, see a dermatologist.

Questions people ask

How often should a beginner use retinol?
Start two nights a week and increase gradually as your skin tolerates it.
Can I use retinol every night?
Many people build up to nightly use. If your skin stays irritated, every other night still works.
Is retinol safe during pregnancy?
Retinoids are generally avoided during pregnancy. Ask your clinician about alternatives.
Sources (5)
  1. Weiss JS, et al. Topical tretinoin improves photoaged skin: a double-blind vehicle-controlled study. JAMA. 1988.
  2. Kafi R, et al. Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A (retinol). Arch Dermatol. 2007.
  3. Mukherjee S, et al. Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clin Interv Aging. 2006.
  4. Thielitz A, Gollnick H. Topical retinoids in acne vulgaris: update on efficacy and safety. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2008.
  5. Dhaliwal S, et al. Prospective, randomized, double-blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing. Br J Dermatol. 2019.

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